The wire exits the starter button and needs a method to be grounded, to have the starter relay coil to be energized. Can be expanded in your computer for more detail. If this gets bad enough for the light to shine fairly bright, you have serious connection problems or possibly so-so brush contacting of the slip rings. A series resistor and a modest capacitor works slightly better, but, still, I don't like that method and suggest you do not use it, after all, the faulty needle movement is telling you something, so why defeat it, if the meter is OK (it may not be). An example of this is that you could have an Airhead manufactured in September, and its actual year model is the next following year. Less commonly, but not at all rare, is a different cause .....sticking ATU parts, the result is advanced timing even as rpm is lowered ...but it won't lower to normal. working isn’t the same as correct – Airhead wiring. There are variations on the actual circuitry used on all the Airheads until the end of Airhead production. This is less likely on the later stator cases which have a slightly changed nib for the brush holder mounting at the D- terminal area, but it is still possible to ground the Df, and then no charging. On a practical basis, considering sometimes poorly maintained electrical systems, old components, etc., don't plan on over 80% of the rated watts output of the alternator; so, you might well need 4000 rpm. A common cause is poor contacts in the umbilical cable plug that fits into the back of the instrument pod. 07/05/2004:  Expand #8. That is a common problem. Load Test the battery on a proper instrument. 113,37 EUR. There are digital voltmeters on the market that require a separate power source. It is critical that the switch be wired exactly as described just below this sketch: Connect two grip wires together; that is, one from the left heated grip, one from the right heated grip. Let us, for this example, assume that the switch is set for the left lamps to be flashing. This may be the ignition module. A /6 and later diode board has an extra terminal on the left side (facing from the front); a wire from that terminal goes to a terminal on the stator housing. Some diodes have a line with an arrow going into it...same thing, line end is cathode. You can measure the battery terminal voltage, under load, such as the headlight or during starting, that will give you some idea ....but a formal load testing is vastly better. The starter motor acts like a very low resistance to ground. https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/WHO-WAS-OAK.htm. If it now lights up, you have bad brushes or bad rotor. There are some minor variations over the years and models, but this is basically what happens to the two larger gauge red wires at that relay's socket ....they are connected when the relay is plugged-in. Caig's products are highly recommended by me; particularly for sensitive areas, such as K bike computer pins; but Caig's are excellent for any electrical connection that might corrode from atmospheric effects. This document is part of a series of airhead electrical system documents. I have all of the information. Headlight relays & Load Shed (Load Relief) relays: Headlight relays were not used on all models; there were none up before 1975. Blue Streak XXX 8mm Spark Plug Wires #MC-SPW15 Harley Davidson Sportster. More on GEN lamps, diode boards, stators, rotors: for current flow. Bypassing the switch will show whether or not the problem is with that switch. Below is a graphical view of the rear of a DPDT switch, with the O meaning a terminal, & my adding of alphabet letters next to each one. Usually, almost any of two-terminal flashers will work OK. After the /5, the stock $$$ electronic flashers are complicated inside. They seem to be "OK". This is extremely rare. This tests the starter relay, starter solenoid, neutral switch at the transmission underside, & handlebar push switch. Electronic regulators will substitute, plug 'n play, for the earlier mechanical regulator, the harness plug fits and the VR fits in the same mounting holes. Fits ALL 1970-'95 air-cooled twins. Typically with a faulty switch the bike will not be startable, unless the clutch lever is pulled backwards. The "Load Shed" relay, installed in the last Airhead motorcycles, is used for the same things, that is, to turn off the headlight when the starter motor is in use; but, the officially called Load Shed (Load Relief) relay works with more items. But if the diode shorts, then the lamp is on if the lever at the bars is pulled. https://www.crbmw.com/chitech-in-the-beginning/  is still priced at $30 & is simply the best electrics manual for Airheads. 14. In a /6, assuming it is stock, the power to run the starter relay begins at the battery + terminal, goes to the ignition switch, then to the emergency kill switch on the bars, & then to two different but somewhat inter-connected circuits. Quite rarely it has happened from bad springs in the ATU of earlier models (non-canister) or sticky units, often from poor lubrication. No resistance wiring nor resistor to get hot, just the grips! The headlight relay is wired to the headlight switch & momentary Hi Beam switch, depending on model & year, & is not wired the same for all models & years, &, further not the same on even the same model in the same year as shipped to the same country!!! There is information on this website on problems with the diode board connections that can influence charging from tiny voltage drops: Folks, I have been developed a growing library of airhead electrical system documents. Then you get to be confused (maybe less so after reading this electrical hints article) in trying to figure it out. BMW Airhead R80 R100 RS RT '88-'95 Stainless Front Brake Hoses Line and Splitter. The lights-on problem also happens in the parking lights position. You can replace it, after removing the board enough to enable getting to the diode. BMW R100RS. © Copyright 2020, R. Fleischer This method is standard for the 1981 and later Airheads. Symptoms of a shorted diode in those various places: Here is a different approach to explaining how the headlight relay works (not the 1975-1977 models): Use the section that has not blown. 21. It is likely that 1, 2, or all 3 of the relay's male spade solder joints inside are cracked. If the wire is not folded over, you can still use 50-50 solder which has worked for me; but, the best fix is to drill a tiny hole through the copper printing material, and add a piece of wire, folding it over & soldering it to the PC, & also under the board, have it tightly wrapped & then soldered on the diode lead (clean well first or it will not solder correctly). I sold all of the first batch of my meters to Airhead owners except one production version that was put on one of my own bikes, and I kept my original homemade one for my 1983 R100RT. Do not depend on the alternator to self-energize at 5000 + rpm. In the 1985 & later (but not including the GS & the 1985 R65), the starter button & starter relay coil circuitry was changed again. It is my belief that the current drain & other characteristics of the Valeo starter & its solenoid switch, are such that reverse current effects (caused by inductance) upon the de-energization of the pull-in coil of the solenoid, are such that the starter relay points could be damaged (they could even stick closed, and the starter continue to run!). Another reason could be that damping of the correct voltmeter can decrease ...& considerably ...due to aging of the internal parts. Complications, if any, are rather easy to deal with, so don't be discouraged with my remarks here. You can use just about any silicon power diode rated at 1 ampere, but I prefer to use one rated at 3 amperes as that size of innards of the diode has much improved longevity & likely will last forever in your bike. Regular price $29.00 Sale price $29.00 Sale. Se connecter. from turn signal switch to headlight. Pesky Diode Problems!! https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/diodebds&grdgwires.htm. NGK makes nice spark plug caps. This was the same effect that was inherent in the Authorities (Police) alternators of much earlier Airheads! $50 OFF parts and accessory orders over $299. Be cautious! Critical item! It does not usually make a difference on a stock 1980 & earlier points bike if you use 5000, but 1000/1200 caps may give slightly better performance if something in the ignition is marginal. Do not nick or cut the wires. It is rare, but a rotor coil can short-circuit to the steel body of the rotor. 39. Ignition points for 1970-1979 Airheads:   BMW has shipped points sets, wrongly made in China. If corrosion or otherwise poor connections are present at the plug/relay terminals, there will be some voltage drop at those connections. For these 1978 into 1980 models, as noted, BMW installed a beeper/buzzer to indicate that the turn signals were in use. /6 Airheads, the Green/Black wire at the left grip, & handlebar push bmw airhead wire the left wire! 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